The Ultimate Travel Guide to Ladakh: PART 2 – A Breathtaking Journey Via Srinagar to Leh Highway
Journey Begins: Discovering Srinagar Before the Leh Highway
During the first week of June last year, we began our Srinagar to Leh road trip, flying first from New Delhi to Srinagar and landing by forenoon at Sheikh ul-Alam International Airport. On the drive to our hotel, we paused at the Botanical Garden. The lush greenery, floral beds, and a tall jet fountain framed by the Zabarwan Mountains made for a calming stop. Soon after, we checked in and rested at the hotel.
Later that afternoon, we explored the famous Mughal Gardens—Nishat Bagh and Shalimar Bagh—both located along Dal Lake’s eastern shore. Nishat Bagh felt peaceful with terraced lawns and sweeping lake views. In contrast, Shalimar Bagh displayed classic Mughal grandeur. Together, these gardens offered a perfect beginning to our journey. In the evening, we enjoyed a long walk along Dal Lake before returning to the hotel.
A visit to Gulmarg was planned for day two. However, persistent rain disrupted our plans and forced us back to Srinagar.
On the third day, we drove to Pahalgam, covering 95 km in about three hours. Much of the route follows the Srinagar–Jammu Highway. It passes Lethapora in Pulwama district and Awantipora before turning toward Pahalgam. Along the way, saffron fields, almond shops, and apple orchards lined the road. Moreover, a stretch beside a tributary of the Jhelum River added scenic beauty.
In Pahalgam, a five-hour pony ride took us to Baisaran (Mini Switzerland), Dabyan, Kashmir Valley, Kanimarg, Denow Valley, Waterfall, and Pahalgam Valley. Each viewpoint revealed breathtaking Himalayan landscapes. Sadly, Baisaran later became the site of a terrorist attack in April 2025, which claimed 26 lives and led to Operation Sindoor in May 2025.
Since this blog focuses on the Srinagar–Leh journey via NH1, we now shift to the main route. Details of the Srinagar–Pahalgam trip will appear in a separate post.
The Ultimate Travel Guide to Ladakh
PART – 1: Complete Planning Guide
PART – 2: A Breathtaking Journey Via Srinagar to Leh Highway
PART – 3: Exploring Leh, Nubra and Pangong
Srinagar – Kargil – Leh by Road (417 km)
The Srinagar–Kargil–Leh route is ideal for travellers seeking dramatic scenery, high passes, and gradual acclimatisation. The road crosses Zoji La (11,575 ft), Namika La (12,139 ft), and Fotu La (13,478 ft). It also passes Lamayuru (11,520 ft) and sites linked to the 1999 Kargil War.
We began this journey on the fourth day, leaving Srinagar around 9:00 AM. The plan was to complete the 417 km in two days, with an overnight stay in Kargil (8,780 ft). This helped with altitude adjustment and made the journey smoother.
Srinagar – Kargil Route Overview (202 km)
Our first major stop was Sonmarg, about 80 km from Srinagar. Ideally, the drive takes two hours, but traffic, convoys, and tourist rushes often cause delays. For us, the drive stretched to nearly three hours.
From Sonmarg, the 20 km road to Zoji La Pass proved slow and challenging. Heavy congestion near Baltal Junction delayed us for three and a half hours. However, once across Zoji La, the road cleared, and we reached Dras—45 km ahead—in only 50 minutes.
At Dras, we spent 45 minutes at the Kargil War Memorial, reflecting on the sacrifices of the 1999 war. Soon afterward, we continued and covered the final 55 km to Kargil town in about 75 minutes.
In total, the 202 km Srinagar to Kargil drive took nearly 10 hours, including three long stops. Nevertheless, the scenery and experiences made the journey worthwhile.
That evening, we met Indian soldiers stationed at outposts above NH1. These posts often lie at 5,000 m (16,000 ft) or more, with some reaching 5,485 m (17,995 ft). Soldiers described winter conditions of –50°C, heavy snow, and low oxygen. Their stories about Tololing, Tiger Hill, and Khalubar made us appreciate their resilience.
Key Highlights of Srinagar to Kargil Route
Sonamarg (Meadow of Gold): Picturesque meadows, riverside tea stalls, and snow-capped peaks.
Zoji-La Pass: At 11,649 ft, it offers thrilling landscapes and is often called “Zero Point.”
Zojila Tunnel: A 14 km tunnel under construction (60% complete as of August 2025). It should finish by 2028, easing winter travel.
Dras: The world’s second-coldest inhabited town. The War Memorial and Museum here showcase captured arms, maps, and stories from the Kargil War.
Drass, famous as the second coldest inhabited place in the world, is home to the Drass War Memorial, which honours the soldiers of the 1999 Kargil War. Visiting the War Memorial was a humbling experience—a moment of reflection and gratitude for the sacrifices made by our soldiers. The War Museum, located within the memorial premises, provides valuable insights into strategic locations, access routes to outposts on ridge peaks, and the conduct of the war. It also features displays of arms and ammunition captured from the enemy.
Tips for the Srinagar to Kargil Section Trip
Outside vehicles cannot usually conduct local sightseeing. For example, Srinagar taxis cannot legally operate in Kargil. Plan your bookings carefully.
Avoid entering Sonmarg market, as it is crowded and time-consuming.
Cross Zoji La early to escape traffic and afternoon weather changes. Light snow is possible even in June.
Before Dras, observe the left-side ridges where infiltrators once positioned themselves during the war.
At Dras War Memorial, engage with soldiers. They gladly explain peak locations like Tiger Hill.
Photography is allowed outside but not inside the War Museum. Use a notebook to capture details.
Kargil – Leh Route Overview (215 km)
Two main routes connect Kargil and Leh. The first, more popular one, runs via Mulbekh, Lamayuru, and Alchi. The second passes through Batalik and the Aryan villages of Dah and Hanu. The Batalik route runs close to the Line of Control and sometimes requires permits.
After an overnight stay in Kargil, we chose the classic Mulbekh–Lamayuru–Alchi route. Departure was at 10:30 AM. The 215 km drive showcased barren slopes, monasteries, and river valleys.
Route 1: Via Mulbekh, Lamayuru, and Alchi
This route includes the Mulbekh Monastery with its 30-foot rock carving of Maitreya Buddha. It climbs to Namika La (12,198 ft), then ascends further to Fotu La (13,479 ft), the highest pass on NH1. After descending, the road reaches Lamayuru, famous for its lunar landscapes. Finally, the UNESCO-listed Alchi Monastery features ancient wall paintings.
Route 2: Via Batalik
This option passes remote Aryan villages like Dah and Hanu, home to the Brokpa (Drokpa) people. These communities are considered among the last Indo-Aryan settlers. Because of its proximity to the LoC, permits may be required.
Kargil to Mulbekh (40 km | 1 hour)
From Kargil, we drove an hour to reach Mulbekh. The green valleys gave way to stark, barren slopes. The tall Maitreya Buddha carving was impressive and overlooked the highway.
Mulbekh to Namika La (15 km | 30 minutes)
The road then climbed toward Namika La. Its winding sections opened up sweeping views of the Zanskar range. Although well-paved, the climb was steep and required cautious driving.
Namika La to Fotu La (35km | 1 hour)
After descending Namika La, the ascent to Fotu La began. At 13,479 ft, Fotu La is the highest point on this highway. Its barren, moon-like landscape left us amazed.
Fotu La to Lamayuru (15km | 30 minutes)
Descending from Fotu La, we reached Lamayuru. The “Moonland” formations, shaped by ancient lake sediments, surrounded the town. Lamayuru Monastery, one of Ladakh’s oldest, stood proudly on a hilltop.
Lamayuru to Khaltse (25km | 45 minutes)
From Lamayuru, we drove toward Khaltse, where the Indus/Sindh River valley returned. The smooth road made this stretch comfortable and scenic.
Khaltse to Sangam (50km | 1.5 hours)
Beyond Khaltse, we passed Basgo, known for fortress ruins and monasteries. Soon after, we reached Sangam, where the emerald Indus meets the muddy Zanskar. The confluence offered a striking natural spectacle. During winter, the frozen Zanskar forms the route for the Chadar Trek.
Sangam stands out because of its striking river confluence. Many photographers and travellers pause here for photos. The scene changes with the seasons and light, producing memorable shots.
Sangam to Magnetic Hill (10km | 15 minutes)
A short drive led us to Magnetic Hill, where cars appear to roll uphill. Though an optical illusion, it remains a fun stop.
Magnetic Hill to Gurudwara Pathar Sahib (5km | 10 minutes)
Close by lies Gurudwara Pathar Sahib, maintained by the Army. According to legend, a demon tried to crush Guru Nanak Dev with a rock. However, the stone softened and still bears his impression. The peaceful gurudwara welcomes all visitors.
Gurudwara Pathar Sahib to Leh (25km | 45 minutes)
The final stretch toward Leh revealed wide views of the Stok Range. With smooth roads, the drive felt relaxing. We reached Leh after around nine hours, including all key stopovers.
For us, the drive was remarkably smooth, with no congestion and excellent roads throughout. We covered most distances as estimated under ideal conditions, making the journey both effortless and enjoyable. Including key stopovers, the trip took around nine hours. In retrospect, this drive stands out as one of the most spectacular experiences in Ladakh, offering an unforgettable blend of adventure, breathtaking scenery, and cultural richness.
Trip Itinerary, Leh and Beyond
Here is a recommended 9-day itinerary for travellers starting in Srinagar:
Day 1: Arrive in Srinagar. Explore Dal Lake and Mughal Gardens. Overnight in Srinagar.
Day 2: Drive to Kargil via Sonmarg and Zoji La. Visit Dras War Memorial. Overnight in Kargil.
Day 3: Drive Kargil to Leh, stopping at Mulbekh, Lamayuru, and Alchi. Overnight in Leh.
Day 4: Rest in Leh for acclimatisation. Stay indoors, avoid excursions or steep climbs.
Day 5: Explore Leh local sights: Shanti Stupa, Leh Palace, and Leh Market.
Day 6: Drive to Nubra Valley via Khardung La Pass. Overnight in Hunder/Diskit.
Day 7: Visit Diskit Monastery, then drive to Pangong Lake. Overnight at lakeside cottages.
Day 8: Return to Leh via Chang La Pass. Overnight in Leh.
Day 9: Depart from Leh.
This itinerary excludes extended time in Srinagar or trips to Gulmarg and Pahalgam. These will be shared in a future blog. Since this post focuses on the Srinagar–Leh NH1 route, further details on Nubra and Pangong will appear separately.
