Ultimate Ladakh Travel Guide Part 1: Complete Planning

The Ultimate Travel Guide to Ladakh: PART 1 – Complete Planning Guide

Majestic Ladakh: A Journey Worth Taking

Ladakh is famous for its high-altitude passes, peaceful monasteries, ancient palaces, and breathtaking landscapes. Its pristine lakes and dramatic terrain make it a destination where nature pushes your limits but rewards you with unmatched beauty.

Just hearing the name “Ladakh” sparks a sense of adventure and wonder. Iconic images of Leh Palace, Nubra Valley, and Pangong Tso often come to mind. Bollywood movies shot in these locations add to its charm and keep the region alive in popular imagination. Families, adventure seekers, and photography lovers from around the world dream of coming here. For many, Ladakh feels like paradise.

This trip had always been on our bucket list. After years of planning, we finally set out as a family last June. We were thrilled, though also slightly anxious, especially after hearing stories about altitude sickness. Ladakh is not your usual holiday or honeymoon spot. Still, we chose to embrace it as an adventure. It turned out to be extraordinary, and every moment together became a memory to treasure.

The Ultimate Travel Guide to Ladakh

PART – 1: Complete Planning Guide

PART – 2: A Breathtaking Journey Via Srinagar to Leh Highway

PART – 3: Exploring Leh, Nubra and Pangong

PART – 4: Comprehensive Guide on AMS

PART – 5: Understanding Ladakh & Its Buddhist Heritage

The Thought Process: Should We Really Go?

The first question we asked ourselves was simple: Can the kids handle it? What about the middle-aged? At high altitude, Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) is always a concern. However, with proper planning, the risks can be managed. After research, we realized that going slow and allowing our bodies to adapt would make the journey safe. Acclimatization was the key.

Next, we debated how to reach Ladakh. Should we fly straight to Leh? Should we go via Kullu and Manali by road? Or should we take the Srinagar–Kargil route? We chose the last option. This route allowed gradual acclimatization, stunning views of Kashmir, and insights into history, including the 1999 Kargil War.

Our journey began with a flight to Srinagar. From there, we drove to Kargil for an overnight halt and continued to Leh the following day. This choice gave us both beauty and comfort—Kashmir’s charm and a smoother transition to Ladakh’s altitude.

I have visited the Swiss Alps several times—Chamonix, Zermatt, Lucerne, and Zurich. Yet Ladakh is unmatched. The Alps are easier, with modern transport and lush greenery. Ladakh, however, is raw and untouched. Snow peaks, barren slopes, and green villages dot the land. Monasteries crown the hills, rich in culture and history.

For those who love photography, culture, history, or nature, Ladakh is a dream. For me, it was love at first sight.

Overview of Ladakh

Ladakh became a Union Territory (UT) of India in 2019. Before that, it was part of the state of Jammu and Kashmir. Located in India’s northernmost region, it borders Pakistan in the west and China, including Tibet, in the northeast.

Historically, Ladakh and Gilgit-Baltistan were one cultural unit. Both were once under the Namgyal dynasty and later the Dogra rulers of Jammu & Kashmir. After the 1947–48 conflict, Gilgit-Baltistan came under Pakistan’s control. It was later separated from so-called “Azad Jammu & Kashmir” and is now governed directly by Pakistan’s federal administration.

To the northeast lies Aksai Chin, historically part of Ladakh but seized by China in the 1950s. It was fully occupied after the 1962 Sino-Indian War. India still considers it sovereign territory, while China administers it as part of Xinjiang.

Leh is Ladakh’s largest town and also its cultural hub. Kargil is the second major town. Until recently, Ladakh had only these two districts. In August 2024, the Indian Ministry of Home Affairs announced the creation of five new districts—Sham, Nubra, Changthang, Zanskar, and Drass. This step was aimed at improving governance in the vast and remote region.

Best Time for Ladakh Travel

The peak tourist season in Ladakh runs from June to August. During these months, the weather is at its best. Days are comfortably warm, while nights remain pleasantly cool. At higher altitudes such as Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri, nights can still be cold.

Summer is the easiest time to explore Ladakh. Roads are mostly clear of snow, making access to remote regions possible. This is also when adventure activities, cultural festivals, and road trips are most enjoyable.

For travelers seeking fewer crowds, late May and early September are also good options. These shoulder months offer milder weather and quieter experiences compared to the busy summer holidays. However, by mid-September, temperatures begin to drop quickly.

Winter travel to Ladakh, from October to May, is possible but challenging. Harsh cold, limited services, and road closures make it suitable only for seasoned adventurers. Yet, winter has its own charm—frozen lakes, snow-covered monasteries, and the famous Chadar Trek on the frozen Zanskar River.

Reaching Leh

Leh is the main gateway for travel across Ladakh. Most visitors start their journey here.

The fastest option is air travel. Direct flights on the Delhi–Leh–Delhi route operate throughout the year. This makes flying the most reliable way to reach Leh, especially in winter when roads are closed.

From May to October, road trips to Leh are also popular. These journeys are not just about reaching the destination—they are adventures in themselves. High-altitude passes, ancient monasteries, and dramatic landscapes unfold mile after mile.

The two most used road routes are the Srinagar–Leh Highway and the Manali–Leh Highway. Both offer unforgettable experiences, but they require careful planning due to weather and terrain.

Roads Leading to Leh – Clouser / Opening

The Srinagar–Leh Highway closes every winter for about 4–5 months, starting in November. It usually reopens in late March or early April, depending on weather. May is the best month to plan a trip on this route. June and July are also good, though the highway gets crowded during school vacations.

Even after reopening, the road needs time to stabilize. In the first weeks, snow slides and loose gravel often cause blockages. Traffic rules are strict, and one-way movement is common. Zojila Pass, in particular, allows only one-way travel in the beginning for safety reasons.

To avoid trouble, it is better to wait a couple of weeks after reopening before traveling. Getting stranded on the icy Srinagar–Leh stretch in April is not a pleasant experience.

The Manali–Leh Highway usually opens between late May and early June, based on snow levels. With the Atal Tunnel, Rohtang Pass is no longer a barrier, but the full route still depends on weather conditions. May is generally safe for this route, yet exact dates vary each year.

Roads within Ladakh – always Open

Unlike the highways from Srinagar and Manali, most roads within Ladakh remain open throughout the year. The Border Roads Organisation (BRO) maintains them regularly, even in winter. Their work includes snow clearance at high-altitude passes.

Important passes such as Namika La (12,139 ft) and Fotu La (13,478 ft) on the Kargil–Leh Highway are kept functional. Khardung La (18,379 ft), which connects Leh with Nubra Valley, also stays accessible with regular maintenance. Similarly, Chang La (17,585 ft) on the Pangong Tso–Leh Highway is cleared frequently.

In the local languages of Ladakh, Tibet, Bhutan, and Nepal, “La” means pass and “Tso” means lake. Knowing this makes it easier to understand names of routes and places.

Thanks to the BRO, travelers can explore Ladakh year-round. However, driving in winter still requires caution because of icy stretches and limited daylight.

Safety and Security in Ladakh

Ladakh is among the safest places to travel in India. The crime rate is very low, and local people are warm, friendly, and welcoming. Their hospitality makes every visitor feel at ease, turning the region into a peaceful destination.

Some foreign blogs mention concerns about border tensions with China and Pakistan. However, these fears are exaggerated. The strong presence of the Indian defence forces ensures stability. Security is visible, so travelers can move around without worry.

Wherever you go in Ladakh, you can feel safe both during the day and night. The serene atmosphere and protective environment add comfort to the adventurous charm of this region.

Getting Around Ladakh

Exploring Ladakh is simple once you reach Leh. Multiple transport options suit all budgets and travel styles. Visitors can rent a private car with a driver, join group tours, take shared taxis, or use public transport.

Budget Travel Options

Budget travelers often combine buses, shared taxis, and even hitchhiking. This works well for solo backpackers. However, families or groups may find it difficult due to limited service frequency.

Private Vehicle Hire

On our first trip, we hired a private Toyota Innova with a driver for eight days. It covered Srinagar, Kargil, Leh, Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, and finally an airport drop. The package cost ₹60,000, which included fuel and driver charges.

Organized Tours and Taxi Rentals

Leh agencies offer tours to Pangong Tso, Nubra Valley, and Turtuk lasting three to four days. A private vehicle with a driver usually starts at ₹25,000 for Pangong and Nubra. Adding Turtuk costs extra.

Tour rates and taxi prices remain fixed due to the driver union, so bargaining rarely works. Agencies in Leh display available departure dates, making it easy to join a group.

Accommodation is not included in group tours. Travelers need to book stays separately online or upon arrival. At Pangong, Diskit, and Hunder, advance booking is advisable. Families should avoid tent-style camps since these often attract noisy biker groups.

Local Sightseeing Around Leh

For short trips, hiring a taxi is the most convenient option. Rates are fixed and listed in official booklets with drivers. Popular day routes include Shey, Thiksey, and Hemis. Costs average ₹4,000 per day, depending on the season.

Important Health Precautions

Those with children, elderly relatives, or medical conditions like asthma, hypertension, or heart issues should avoid high altitudes. Travelers should also hire vehicles that can carry oxygen cylinders. This ensures quick response in case of emergencies or the need to descend fast.

Motorbike Rentals

Adventure lovers often rent Royal Enfield Himalayans. These are available at many Leh rental shops at affordable rates. However, Ladakh roads are rugged and at high altitude. Prior riding experience and a valid motorcycle license are essential before considering this option.

Whether on four wheels or two, traveling through Ladakh’s stunning landscapes makes the journey as memorable as the destination itself.

Accommodation Options in Ladakh

Ladakh offers a wide range of accommodations, from budget guesthouses to luxury hotels. Visitors can choose hotels, homestays, lodges, or camps, and most options are available for online booking.

Seasonal Accommodation Rates

Summer (June to September):

Budget stays such as guesthouses and homestays in Leh cost ₹1,000–₹1,500 per night.
Mid-range 3-star hotels average around ₹3,000 per night.
Luxury 4-star hotels or equivalent average about ₹3,800 per night.

Winter (October to May):
Due to extreme weather, many properties close. Those that remain open often offer discounted rates to attract travelers.

Notable Hotels in Ladakh

The Grand Dragon Ladakh – A luxury hotel in Leh. Summer packages start at ₹2,50,000 for an 8-night stay.
Panorama Hotel – Located on Changspa Road near Shanti Stupa. Rates are about ₹1,500 per day in summer and ₹3,000 per day in winter.

Prices vary based on booking dates, availability, and occupancy. Always confirm current rates and inclusions before booking.

Tips for Booking Accommodation

Meals: Many stays include breakfast and dinner. Confirm this during booking.
Room Heating: Options include central heating, oil-filled radiators (OFR), or electric heaters. Avoid coil heaters or blowers as they reduce oxygen, risky at high altitudes. If central heating fails, request an OFR.
Hot Water: Ask whether it comes from a central system or individual geysers. Central systems may limit supply.
Connectivity: Confirm TV options (Tata Sky, cable) and Wi-Fi availability. These are useful for families, especially when resting or acclimatizing.

With the right accommodation, your Ladakh stay can be both comfortable and memorable.

Food and Eating Options in Ladakh

Ladakh’s food reflects a mix of Tibetan, Central Asian, and North Indian influences. The harsh climate and remote geography shape the local cuisine. Meals rely on locally grown grains, vegetables, and easily stored ingredients, making Ladakhi food both simple and nourishing.

Must-Try Local Cuisine in Ladakh

Ladakhi & Tibetan Dishes

Thukpa – A Tibetan noodle soup with vegetables or meat, perfect for cold weather.
Momos – Dumplings steamed or fried, filled with vegetables, paneer, or meat.
Tingmo – A soft, steamed Tibetan bread, often eaten with curries or stew.
Skyu – A Ladakhi stew made with wheat dough and vegetables, sometimes with meat.
Chhutagi – A Ladakhi pasta dish cooked in a rich gravy with vegetables or meat.
Butter Tea (Gur Gur Chai) – A salty tea made with yak butter and tea leaves, ideal for warmth and energy.
Chang – A local barley-based beer, mildly alcoholic and popular among locals.

North Indian and Kashmiri Cuisine
Since Ladakh was historically part of Jammu & Kashmir, many Kashmiri dishes are common here. Popular options include:

Rogan Josh – A flavorful mutton curry.
Gushtaba – Minced mutton balls in a rich yogurt-based sauce.
Kashmiri Pulao – A sweet, aromatic rice dish with saffron and dry fruits.

Other Indian Dishes
Restaurants in Leh also serve regular North and South Indian meals. Common choices include Dal-Chawal (lentils with rice), Roti-Sabzi (flatbread with vegetables), Masala Dosa, Idli, and Sambar.

What to Avoid Eating in Ladakh

Heavy, oily, and fried food – It slows digestion at high altitude.
Raw salads and uncooked street food – Hygiene and water quality may be unreliable.
Excessive dairy – Some travelers face digestion issues due to high-fat dairy.
Unbolted or untreated water – Stick to boiled, filtered, or bottled water.

Beverages to Try and Avoid

Recommended Drinks

Butter Tea – Helps keep you hydrated and warm.
Kahwa – Kashmiri green tea with saffron and almonds.
Herbal Teas – Chamomile or mint tea aids digestion and relaxation.
Hot Soups – Lentil, barley, or vegetable soups help in acclimatization.

Avoid

Alcohol (especially early in the trip) – It causes dehydration and worsens altitude sickness.
Aerated Soft Drinks – Gas causes bloating in high altitudes.
Cold Beverages – These can trigger throat infections in Ladakh’s dry weather.

👉 For detailed information on altitude sickness and food safety, you may refer to a separate blog on Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS).

Ideal Duration for Exploring the Majesty – Ladakh, How Long Should You Stay?

Ladakh’s rugged terrain and long travel distances make it impossible to see everything in one trip. The Border Roads Organisation (BRO) maintains the highways, but the region still demands time and planning. Many travelers return multiple times to explore Ladakh fully.

Suggested Duration for First-Time Visitors

If you arrive in Leh by air, a 9–10 day itinerary is enough to cover most highlights. These include:

Leh Market and Shanti Stupa
Leh Palace
Thiksey, Hemis, and Shey Monasteries
Zanskar–Indus Sangam
Gurdwara Pathar Sahib and Magnetic Hill
Nubra Valley (Diskit and Hunder)
Pangong Lake
High passes such as Khardung La and Chang La

This schedule allows travelers to see the major attractions without rushing.

Exploring Offbeat Destinations

Some destinations require additional trips from Leh:

Zanskar Valley
Turtuk and Siachen Base Camp
Tso Moriri and Hanle
Zoji La, Kargil–Dras, and Lamayuru

A separate extension of 2–3 days is needed for Tso Moriri and Hanle. Similarly, the Aaryan villages along the Kargil–Leh route via Batalik require a different plan.

Zanskar Valley is easier to reach from Kargil than from Leh. Until the Leh–Nimmoo–Padum road is complete, travelers can plan a phased road trip. A typical route may look like this:

Leg 1: Manali – Jispa/Sarchu – Leh
Leg 2: Leh – Kargil (via Khaltse, Dah, Batalik)
Leg 3: Kargil – Padum
Leg 4: Padum – Manali

This journey spans 12–15 days and requires careful preparation. Separate blogs provide detailed guides for these routes.

Tips for Careful Planning of Trip Itinerary

Ladakh is a high-altitude region, so careful planning is essential. Poor planning can increase the risk of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). While a separate blog covers AMS in detail, here are important points to consider.

Rest and Acclimatization

Whether you travel by air or road, rest is crucial.
After reaching Leh, spend at least two days in town.
On Day 1, avoid sightseeing or long walks. Complete rest helps your body adjust.
On Day 2, try limited local sightseeing at lower altitude spots such as Shanti Stupa, Leh Market, or Leh Palace. Avoid steep climbs or high passes this early.

Travel by Road from Srinagar

The Srinagar–Leh route begins at about 5,200 feet.
Do not attempt to reach Leh in one day.
Stop at Kargil (around 8,800 feet) for an overnight stay.
Leh sits at 11,500 feet, so gradual ascent helps the body adapt.

Travel by Road from Manali

The Manali–Leh road starts at about 6,400 feet.
Take at least two or three days to complete this route.
Avoid overnight stays at Sarchu (14,070 feet) or Pang (15,280 feet) due to the high risk of AMS.
If limited to one overnight stay, choose Jispa (10,500 feet) or Darcha (11,023 feet). From there, Leh is still a long 10–12 hour drive.
The full distance from Manali to Leh is about 475 km.

Smart Route Choice

For a round trip, go to Leh via Srinagar–Leh Highway and return via Leh–Manali Highway.
This works better because by the return journey, your body is acclimatized.
The Leh–Manali road is also steeper, making it safer to attempt while descending.

Important Travel Tips

Do not plan to visit Tso Moriri or Pangong Tso immediately after reaching Leh. Keep these for later days.
Visit Nubra Valley (10,000 feet) first, as it is lower than Leh and easier on the body.
If you only have 3–4 days, stay overnight only in Leh. This ensures access to medical facilities in case of emergency.
In October, travel only via the Srinagar–Leh Highway. The Manali route becomes unsafe by then.
Between November and April, fly to Leh. Roads are unreliable and dangerous during these months.

Inner Line Permit and Protected Area Permit

Travelers to Ladakh often ask about permits. The rules are simple, but they differ for Indian and foreign tourists.

Permits for Indian Tourists

Since 2021, Inner Line Permits (ILP) are no longer required. Domestic tourists can freely visit all areas of Ladakh. This includes Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Hanle, Umling La, Marsimik La, Demchok, and Chumur.

However, you still need to pay an environment or green fee of about ₹700 per person. Always carry the payment receipt. The process can be completed online at lahdclehpermit.in.

Permits for Foreign Nationals

Foreign tourists still require a Protected Area Permit (PAP) or Restricted Area Permit (RAP). These are necessary to visit places like Pangong Tso, Nubra Valley, Khardung La, Tso Moriri, Turtuk, and Dah-Hanu villages.

You can apply for PAP/RAP at the DC Office in Leh through a registered travel agent. The official Leh administration website also provides an online option.

For citizens of Pakistan, Bangladesh, China, and Afghanistan, permits are issued only by the Ministry of Home Affairs (MHA) in New Delhi. Diplomats and officials need clearance from the Ministry of External Affairs (MEA).